April 29, 2006
The Zane Grey Highline 50-Mile Endurance Run is held below the Mogollon Rim near Payson, Arizona. Western author Zane Grey built a large cabin near this historic trail (hence the name for the race). In 1990 a massive forest fire destroyed the historic cabin, 46 homes, and also tragically took the lives of six fire fighters. 24,174 acres were burned. (Cabin rebuilt in 2005)
April 21, 2006
On a whim, I decided to take time off work and make a quick trip to the South Rim for another double crossing. This would be my 4th double crossing, and my second double crossing from starting at the South Rim. The long 9-10 hour drive is a pain. I arrived in the early evening. The weather was sunny, warm, and wonderful I decided to take a leisurely walk along the rim in the tourist crowd. At Mather Point, I could see a great view of Phantom Ranch and The Box (canyon) heading up to the North Rim. The Canyon was hazy due to some controlled burns in the area. I felt anxious to get going, but I planned to start around 1 a.m. (Utah time). I like to do most of the first crossing in the dark, and make the return trip in the morning before it gets too hot at the bottom.
March 18, 2006
I ran in the first-ever Antelope Island Buffalo Run 50K on Antelope Island, the largest island in the Great Salt Lake, Utah. I really enjoyed the experience especially because it was the first ultra that I ran with my brother, Bob. Bob, who flew in from California, had run in a few marathons and had completed a double-crossing of the Grand Canyon with me last fall, but he had not yet run in an ultra race. This 50K was an ideal race for a first-timer.
March 4, 2006
I was on the waiting list for Old Pueblo 50, held near Tucson, AZ. A couple weeks before the race I found out that my entrance had been accepted. I quickly made arrangements for the trip. I ran in Old Pueblo 50 in 2005 and had a great experience. This would be the first repeat 50-mile race of my relatively short ultra career. The first leg of my journey would be an 800-mile endurance drive from my home in Utah to Tucson. My wife and three of my six kids made the trip with me. We arrived at 2 a.m. Saturday morning and crashed in our motel room for a couple hours. There would be no sleep for me. I would have to run this race without good rest. With still another 75 minutes to drive, we hit the road again at 4:15 a.m., arriving at the start at 5:30 – a half hour to spare.
The start/finish line was at Kentucky Camp (historic mining camp) near Sonoita, Arizona, at 5,142 feet. I went through my pre-race preparations, said a few quick hellos to some friends and took a deep breath with three minutes before the start. I had made it!
Course Map
Last year I ran the race in 12:16. I believed with a good race, I could post a sub-11-hour finish. That was my goal. At 6 a.m. we were off, climbing up to the ridges with our flashlights. The temperature was nice, about 40 degrees. It wasn’t long before I shed my long-sleeve shirt. As usual, I wore my coonskin hat and received many comments from people who remembered seeing it last year. One guy said, “I see you are wearing that stupid hat again.” Gee, fashion critics everywhere!
Me, feeling good as the sun rises
I felt wonderful during the first 3-mile leg to the Granite Mountain aid station. It felt like I was pushing the pace fast. I arrived at the 31-minute mark. I was surprised to see that I was only one minute ahead of last year. I guess I started pretty fast last year too. Next up was a portion of the Arizona Trail. I really loved the next leg. It was my favorite portion of the course. It consisted of nice single-track that climbed and descended along the high ridges of the Santa Rita Mountains. I completed this leg without anyone passing me, arriving at California Gulch (mile 7.3) at the 1:15 mark. I was right on my 2005 pace, running in 16th place. All day long I kept my aid-station stops short, usually only 1-2 minutes.
Next I ran down a dirt road, and then started a long 20-mile loop, which is the northern half of this big figure-8 course. The course emptied out into sandy washes through Barrel Canyon. Last year I struggled somewhat through this section, but this year I pushed through it fast and actually enjoyed the challenge. I felt fantastic and could tell that my recent speed training was helping immensely. I heard a few runners behind me but I picked up the pace to stay ahead. We made the turn for the uphill run through Wasp Canyon. Last year I walked much of this stretch, but this year I ran most of the way. Several runners passed me and I realized that they looked much stronger and faster than the group I usually see running near me. They were strongly running up the hill. I knew I was out of my league running with them but was pleased that I was doing pretty well so far. We cruised into Wasp Canyon aid station (mile 12.9) at the 2:10 mark, in 18th place. I was now 1 minutes ahead of my pace last year.
I knew what lay ahead next — the long uphill climb to Gunsight Pass. Last year many runners passed me along this stretch but this year I kept the pace up and I was surprised how quickly the pass arrived. Next up, a long downhill-run to the desert floor. A couple of my toes complained from the pounding downhill. I leapfrogged several runners along the way and as the road became less steep, I was able to get into a good rhythm. I passed the group arriving at Helvetia aid station (mile 19.4) at the 3:29 mark, 21 minutes ahead of last year, running in 28th place. I was very pleased with these first 20 miles.
Things started to unravel. The sun was now out and unfortunately I lost my baseball cap. There would be nothing to shade me from the sun. My pace for the next five miles was pathetic. I just could not kick it into gear and walked for much of it. The heat was really getting to me. I was passed by at least a dozen runners during this section. I was less than halfway through with the race and I felt terrible. “Why am I doing this to myself,” I asked. I looked at the skies and hoped that some clouds would arrive to cool things down some more. I knew we would climb up out of the desert soon, so I tried to be patient and keep the pace going on this shadeless section of the course. I arrived at Box Canyon (mile 24.3) at the 4:44 mark, running in 38th place. I was now only seven minutes ahead of my pace last year. I ran this stretch 14 minutes slower this time. “Pathetic” was the word running through my mind.
Next up was the long steady climb up the road through Box Canyon. The wind picked up a little to help cool things off. Last year a bad storm arrived while I was making the climb. This year I did my best to keep the power hiking going up the hill but I was still passed by about eight runners. I arrived back at California Gulch (mile 28.8) at the 5:58 mark, in 48th place, now 12 minutes ahead of last year.
I continued to struggle on my return trip along the single-track of the Arizona Trail. I just couldn’t kick it into gear. As runners passed me they would ask if I was OK. I stopped to assist one runner who had lost her e-caps. I gave up about half of mine and she went on her way. I crawled into Granite Mountain aid station (mile 33) at the 7:14 mark. I was now only six minutes ahead of last year and fading fast, running in 53rd place. At this aid station I took a few extra minutes to clean out a shoe, take care of business, and drink plenty. Last year I ran out of water on this next 7-mile leg.
On the next climb at the beginning of this leg, I started to feel much better. The temperature felt cooler and my stomach felt satisfied. The run through creek beds was easier this year because of the drought. Last year water was flowing and much of the trail was in poor shape because of heavy runoff. Three runners passed me. After the third passed me, I hung with him for a while and then it occurred to me that I had new energy. I kicked it into gear and passed him. “This is great,” I thought. I kicked it into even a higher gear on the uphill portions and soon passed by the other two runners who would never pass me again. I was cruising! No pain and plenty of energy. With the faster pace, I did make the mistake twice of tripping. This took me out of my rhythm, but I was pleased to see I could kick it back into gear. With a mile to go before Cave Canyon aid station there was a sign stating that there was only a mile to go until aid. I remember last year I was really dragging and that last mile took forever. This year I ran it very hard and before I knew it, I cruised into the checkpoint with bagpipes playing over a boom box. I arrived at Cave Canyon (mile 38.7) at the 8:56 mark. I ran that leg 15 minutes faster than last year and now was 19 minutes ahead of the pace., in 53rd place. With ten miles to go and two hours left, I knew it would be very unlikely that I would finish in less than 11 hours. I had lost that goal on the desert floor.
I could tell that a couple runners at the aid station were surprised that I had caught up to them and they quickly gathered their things and went ahead. I still felt great. Compared to last year at this point I felt super. The long uphill went by pretty fast and I was soon at the top of the ridge, looking forward to a nice steady downhill. Last year I found my second wind during the downhill section which included a fun single track. I covered this leg 12 minutes faster than last year, arriving at Gardner Canyon (mile 46.2) at the 10:42 mark, 57th place, 28 minutes ahead of my 2005 pace. I grabbed one Tums, didn’t need to refill and pushed ahead for the final climb. I cruised up it pretty fast and then tried my best to really kick it into gear for the final miles. I passed a runner (Sam Votaggio of Austin) who was walking slowly the rest of the way. From the ridge you can see the finish less than a mile away, but I knew the course would take me further along the ridge and then wind through some valleys for a couple extra miles. As I was descending fast down the ridge, I took a major face plant. Down I went. Oh well, I would finish with blood running down my arm and dirt covering me. I shook it off and kicked it back into gear. I was amazed how wonderful I felt. I really picked it up a notch for the final mile or so though beautiful single track winding through the high grasses.
Finally, Kentucky Camp arrived. I ran the last leg seven minutes faster than last year. I finished in 11:41, with lots of energy left. I didn’t reach my goal of 11 hours, but I did work through some tough times and improved on my 2005 time by 35 minutes. I came in 56th out of 110 starters. Old Pueblo 50 is a super race. Next year I will put my entry in on time!
January 14-15, 2006
I knew that running the H.U.R.T. 100 mile race in Hawaii would be the toughest ultra experience I have ever attempted. It indeed met my expectations. After a relaxing five days in Hawaii with my wife, Linda, celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary, it was time to get off of my beach towel and do some slipping and sliding in the rain forest jungles above Honolulu. H.U.R.T. stands for Hawaiian Ultra Running Team, but I fully understood that H.U.R.T also would mean pain.
December 23, 2005
The winter snows in mountains and hills of Utah have chased me down into the valley floors for my winter running adventures. With some days off from work during the holidays, and the need to burn off some of the holiday goodies, I sought out a new adventure to keep my training motivation high.
November 5, 2005
After two weeks since my last double crossing, the big ditch was calling me again. I decided to try a solo crossing to see how fast I could do it. I drove to the North Rim Friday evening, arriving at about 9:30 p.m. After making preparations and failed attempts to sleep, a little after midnight I decided to just go ahead and start.
October 21, 2005
Five months ago, I accomplished my first double crossing of the Grand Canyon, running alone from the South Rim, to the North Rim, and back in about 14.5 hours. I looked forward to returning, this time starting from the North Rim. I invited my brother, Bob, to join me. Bob had recently finished the St. George Marathon, and had run many 30-mile training runs. I believed he could make it just fine and I looked forward to sharing the experience with him.
October 14-15, 2005
Mount Timpanogos (11,749 feet) is the most popular hiking destination in Utah. Two trails are the most common accesses to the summit, Timpooneke Trail (from American Fork Canyon) and Mount Timpanogos Trail near Aspen Grove (from Provo Canyon).
September 23-24, 2005
I had a score to settle at the 2005 Bear 100-mile race held near Preston, Idaho (Gosh, yes, Napoleon Dynamite territory.) Last year I ran out of gas and time around mile 87. This year I was determined to finish and confidant that I could finish in less than 30 hours.
August 20-21, 2005
I ran in the highest 100-mile race in North America, the Leadville 100. It starts at around 10,000 feet and peaks at 12,700. It was a great experience.
May 21, 2005
I linked up with Jeff Gerke of Sandy, Utah for a run in Zion National Park. I met Jeff on the Internet on the ultra list. This would be the first of many running adventures that I would have with Jeff. We planned to do an end-to-end run through Zion National Park starting at Lees Pass in the northwest end of the Park, run along the West Rim and then descend into the Canyon at Angels Landing.
After a nice night at a nearby campground, and a few hours sleep, Garth (our crew) dropped us (me and Jeff) off at Lee’s Pass, at 5:30 a.m. It was still pretty dark, so we had a little trouble finding the trailhead. We began on a trail that eventually disappeared, but finally found the main trail. We ran cautiously until the morning light aided our vision.
Me, approaching La Verkin Creek
Jeff photo
Jeff running along La Verkin Creek
We soon reached La Verkin Creek which was roaring through the canyon. I thought, “Wow, we have to cross this?” I had run through this canyon a couple years ago and I was amazed at how much more water was flowing this time. Our trail was now sandy, but very runable and we were able to pick up the pace.
Kolab Arch
We reached the junction to Kolob Arch (6.6 miles) right on schedule 1:15 (elapsed time). We decided to take a quick look at the arch and ran/hiked the rugged out-and-back trail, adding one mile to our adventure.
Me, making the crossing
Jeff photo
Jeff, in the cold Creek
Next we were faced with fording La Verkin Creek. We searched for a few minutes to find the best place to cross. Finally, I just chose the widest area and plunged in up to my thighs and struggled across. Jeff soon followed. I made him stay in longer so I could snap a picture. Brrrr….it was cold water.
Jeff in Hop Canyon
Next up, was Hop Canyon. Lots of uphill, 1350 feet. It was a beautiful canyon with plenty of sandy trails to slow us down. The sun started to shine on the valley walls.
Jeff on a steep climb up the canyon
The valley eventually opened up wide and we could feel the sun start to bake us. Who was that dude bounding down the trail? Wynn Shooter, another local runner. Wynn ran in a couple miles to greet us, and join us for the rest of the run. We made our way to the Hop Canyon trailhead where Garth was there to give us aid. We arrived about right on schedule considering our detour to see Kolob Arch. 14.6 fairly tough miles in 3:40.
Me, Jeff, and Wynn at Garth’s aid station
Jeff photo
The heat was getting to me. I only drank one water bottle up to that point. At Garth’s aid station, I drank, ate, drank, and ate some more. It was a nice extended aid stop. We bid good-bye to Garth and hoped to see him in six hours. With a full stomach, I had a tough time kicking into gear.
Me, dragging on the connector trail
Jeff photo
For a half hour or so, I dragged behind Jeff and Wynn on the connector trail. I marveled that they were carrying on a nice conversation and I was huffing and puffing trying to find energy and keep up. We climbed up to a saddle between two valleys, making pretty good time, and then skirted the slopes of a couple canyons, eventually descending down into Wildcat Canyon.
Finally, with a little downhill, I found that extra running gear again. I discovered that my legs loved pounding the downhills today. That was a little odd, because usually my knees don’t let me pound them. But today I really used gravity well, avoided braking very much, just through caution to the wind, and bounded down the hills. It was a blast.
Wynn and Jeff making the river crossing
I cruised ahead of Wynn and Jeff and quickly reached another major river crossing, Wildcat Canyon (mile 21.8). I crossed and set up for a photo opportunity of the others at the river crossing. The trail next took us up and out of Wildcat Canyon.
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At a junction for the first spring, we decided to skip it. Wrong decision! It was hot and I eventually ran out of water. I would use only two water bottles for over ten miles in the heat. No wonder I was dragging. The views of the west rim were incredible! Wow! The trail was mostly level along the rim, presenting spectacular views for us to the west.
Me and Wynn resting at Potato Hollow Spring
Jeff photo
Finally, we reached Potato Hollow Spring (mile 28.3). Just in time. I was headed toward major dehydration and Jeff’s stomach was revolting. We pulled out the water pump and filtered lots of water and did our best to eat and regain strength. We all felt much better after a short stop and pressed on ahead.
Me, starting the run down
One more major uphill and then it would be mostly downhill. Finally, my second wind kicked in and I loved pounding down the hills again. Strangely, no pain to be felt anywhere. At West Rim Spring (mile 32.6), we checked our water supply and felt we just had enough to finish the hot 4.4-mile steep downhill ahead.
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Jeff and Wynn |
Me running along a cliff |
My energy level felt good. I was like a puppy dog with a camera. I would bound on ahead, wait for the others, shoot photos, catch up and pass, and do it all again. The trail was pretty steep, carved into the cliffs, and after awhile was hard on the legs. We looked forward to sandy stretches.
With about two miles to go, there was another long uphill stretch. Sadly, I ran out of water going up and fell way behind. At the top I took a wrong turn and started heading toward a cliff. I could see Jeff and Wynn, far down below and asked them where the trail was. They made some incoherent motions, and finally I backtracked and found the trail. I again pounded the downhill and finally caught up with them right after Angel’s Landing.
The last major obstacles were tourists. We dodged them left and right. Crazy tourists hiking up in the heat. We looked very out of place – runners with muddy feet and legs. Finally with a half mile to go, my body shut down, dehydrated, unwilling to run anymore. Jeff and Wynn caught up. Wynn gave me the last of his precious water, helping me to reach the finish line.
It was a great adventure! The heat really took its toll on me. I have not trained enough in the heat and didn’t push the fluids enough on this day. But still, we made out goal to reach The Grotto trailhead in six hours. Total adventure time was about 9.5 hours.
