Squaw Peak 50 Mile Trail Run – UT

June 7, 2008

The Squaw Peak 50 is held in the mountains above Provo, Utah, and is only about 30 minutes from my home.   It runs in the Wasatch Mountains, in the next county south of the Wasatch 100 course.  The course is tough, and it is billed as being the third toughest 50-miler in North America.  Among the features that make it tough is:  over 10,000 of elevation climb, a strong likelihood of snow to run through, and a very tough steep climb at the 40-mile point.  The course starts in beautiful Provo canyon at a popular family park and does a complete giant 50-mile loop. The course climbs up onto high ridges with great views of the cities below.   It then has a very long descent down into another valley.  The climb starts again in a very remote area.  The highlight of the course that you always keep in the back of your mind, is a very steep, tough climb up above Windy Pass at about mile 40. The highest point is about 9,400 feet.   The last leg of the course is a long 4,200-foot descent over nine miles, to the finish.

This would be my 4th time running Squaw Peak.   My previous finishes were:

Year	Time	Place
2005	12:42	60th
2006	12:06	56th
2007	11:40	49th

I’ve been improving each year and despite my increasing age, I still felt that I could do even better this year.  In past years, I didn’t really focus on this race, I just participated.  This year I spent my May training focusing on doing well at Squaw Peak.   I tried to run on trails and roads similar to those I would run on during the race.  I also increased my mileage base.
 
My race goals were:  1. A sub-11-hour finish.  2. A top 30 finish.

As race day approached, the biggest concern was how fast the course would be.  There was still plenty of snow in the mountains.  In 2005, the snow really slowed things down.  It looked like we would have a few miles of snow, but nothing like 2005.

The pre-race dinner and meeting is always well-attended.  The meal is great with pie and ice cream for desert.  I had fun greeting many friends and eating dinner with the Hawaii ultrarunners who I have seen at several races.   I returned home and made my final preparations.  This was the first race that I didn’t wake up before the alarm.  I had it set for 3:30 a.m.  It was so nice to sleep in my own bed and be at the start in only a half hour.  As I drove, I noticed rain drops on my windshield.  I certainly did not plan for rain.

When I dropped off my drop bags, the rain really started to come down.  I said a few hellos, but decided to stay warm and dry in my car until just a couple minutes before the start.  I chose to approach drop bags and what I carried during this race much different than usual.  I wouldn’t carry a waist belt.  Because of the cool weather, I would just carry one water bottle for the first 26 miles.   My only real drop bag would be at mile 26.  In it would be another water bottle, some clean socks, and a dry shirt.  At the other drop bag locations, I put a ziplock bag with a can of Ensure.  I looked forward to traveling light and fast.

I looked over my past year split times to develop my race strategy.   Each year I went out pretty fast and reached the 26-mile point close to 5 hours.   I just couldn’t figure out how I could squeeze out any more minutes for the first half.   The key for me is the second half.  I know that I could improve my time between miles 26-41.  So, I decided that I would try to push the first 15 miles even harder, hold on until mile 26, do my best to run 26-41 faster, and then blast down the downhill to the finish.  In all cases I planned to make my aid station visits very fast.

The rain was coming down at the start.  At the last minute, I decided to take a light jacket with me.   I worked my way up near the front of the 220 runners, and away we went at 5:00 a.m.   The first two miles are along a paved trail that descends gradually down Provo Canyon.   I decided to run these first two miles fast in order to reach the single-track trail ahead of the crowds.   I hung well with the top five runners as we ran faster than 7-minute miles.  When we arrived at the single-track trail, I watched the fast runners go ahead.  Behind me was a large gap until the next group of runners.   I was glad to be away from any groups, able to run at my own pace.  I pushed pretty hard and kept a run going on the rolling, ascending trail.  My legs felt very strong.  At switchbacks, I still couldn’t see any runners on my tail.  The rain continued to fall, but I was warm and felt just fine.   So far the trail wasn’t very muddy.   

I arrived at Hope Campground (mile 5.6) at 1:02 in 6th place.   I just ran through the station and quickly passed on early starter.  (About 20 runners started an hour early).   The rain continued to fall.  I was thankful that I was running near the front, because I could tell that as more runners came by, the trail would get more slippery.  In another mile, Dave Hunt (finished 5th)  and Brian Beckstead (finished 3rd) caught up with me.  I was pleased to see that I was able to stay ahead of Dave much longer this year.   We arrived at a steep section and the trail became very slippery.  I really had a tough time keeping up.  With each step, the foot would slide back.  We tried climbing off the trail a little, in the grass and that helped a little.  One of the guys commented that before the day was done, the trail would be much wider because of all the foot traffic on the grass.  The slippery surface really took its toll on me and I finally stopped trying to keep up with those ahead.

Finally we left the slippery single-track and ran on a wide dirt road with much better traction.  In past years I walked much of this, but this year I kept a run going the entire time.  I soon noticed snow flakes falling.  Wow, snow!   I arrived at Rock Canyon (mile 10.9) at 2:12, in 9th place.   I was three minutes faster than last year even though it felt like I was going much faster.  The mud sections were really slowing me down.   I hoped to refill my bottle from my drop bag, but the aid station volunteers had not sorted the bags by number.  After hunting for a half minute, I gave up.   Several other stations had the same problem.  That really was my only complaint for the day.

I passed many other early starters, keeping pace with a couple of the top-10 runners.   The snow continued to fall and started to accumulate on the trail.  On a downhill section, my feet slipped out from under me and down I went.   I tried to instead run on the grass, but it was almost just as slick.  In another couple minutes, down I went again!  This was really a wild adventure!   The course returned to the dirt road and I was able to push the pace harder.    Eventually about two inches of new snow accumulated and I enjoyed running on the soft surface.  I was having a blast.  At times the visibility decreased as the snow fell very hard.  Clumps of snow fell off my hat.  I arrived at Kolob Overlook (mile 14.6) at 3:06, still running in about 10th place. 

The next ten miles were lonely because I rarely saw any other runners.   The fast frontrunners were far ahead and the crowds behind were nowhere to be seen.   The road descended for about seven miles and I really enjoyed the fast downhill run.   As I descended the snow disappeared and finally the rain stopped falling.   I arrived at Aid Station 5 (mile 20.9) at 4:18, still in about 10th place.  My pace was about five minutes slower than last year.  Why were all the other runner behind?   Last year I was in 37th place at this point.  Wow, the mud must have really been taking its toll.   I ran up the paved road through Hobble Creek Canyon.  In past years I would walk much of this.  This year, ran this entire section without stopping.   I arrived at Left Fork (mile 26.1) at 5:02, just a little slower than last year.

The next two sections (7.4 miles) are always tough for me.  I get lazy and slow, and it usually takes me two hours.   The same was true this year.   Several runners, including Birgitta Johnson passed me, moving very strongly.  Finally I was seeing other runners, but they were all running faster than me.   Grit in my shoes was bothering me.  My gaiters had come apart, so I pulled them off.  (They were wet and heavy anyway.)   At Sheep Canyon (mile 30), I sat down for a couple minutes and cleaned out my shoes.  I felt so much better.   The next section is among the most beautiful sections of the course as it passes through valleys and wide fields and then descends into Little Valley.   I really wanted too run the downhill fast, but the trail was so muddy and slippery, that I had to slow down and be very careful.  I finally arrived at Little Valley (mile 33.5) at 7:08.   I was discouraged to see that I was 14 minutes slower than last year.  How could that be?   I felt strong and fresh.   I only stayed a minute and then was off toward the toughest climbs of the day.  

I was very pleased with my pace and strength as I ran up Right Fork and on the long traverse around Bald Knoll.   No runners passed me on this long section.  I never saw or heard anyone.  This remote trail was in much better shape this year because the bushes had not had a chance to grow much because of the colder season.   I really felt great and was enjoying the run immensely.   As I neared the huge snow ridge climb, I downed some gel to prepare for the energy needed.  I could see far up the mountain a lone runner at the top, looking back down at the view and the amazing task that they had just accomplished.   I soon hit the snow and was disappointed to discover that it was very slick.  It was hard to dig my toes into the snow for traction, and my feet kept slipping back.   It was slow going.   A couple other runners caught up to me, including Paul Grimm from Colorado, who I had run many miles near at Moab 100.   We were pleased to see each other.

Up, up, up, I went.  It was slower this year and discouraging as I watched the clock tick ahead.   Finally, I reached the top of the peak a little after Paul did.  We now had a fairly steep rugged descent to Windy Pass.   A smile was on my face as I again could run and prance down the hill.  I caught up with Paul who was moving very slowly, complaining about the descent.   My legs and joints felt great, so I kicked it into gear and bid him goodbye.  I let out whoops of joy as I approached Windy Pass aid station (mile 41.5) at 9:53.   Buddy, Jim Skaggs came out to greet me.  In past years I was in rough shape at this point and he kindly would help me “pick up the pieces.”  But this year I was full of energy and in high spirits.   I didn’t sit down, quickly filled up, grabbed a sandwich and was on my way.  I am amazed at the volunteers at this station.  They must backpack everything up there except water, some taking multiple trips.

The next half-mile was tough.  I knew it would be.   The snow banks were deep and the trail continually went into the snow.  It was a slow task to put my feet into the existing snow tracks and try not to slip.   Finally I got through the snow and a nice downhill run was ahead of me. A very fast moving runner caught up and passed me.  I wasn’t quite ready to run that fast, so I watched him go.  But as the trail descended, I was able to kick it up a notch.  I looked at my watch and thought that I had no hope in breaking last year’s PR time, but I had a blast running fast down the forest trail that eventually opened up into scrub oak and brush.    After crossing a wide open field, I looked back and could see a couple runners several hundred yards behind.  That gave me the motivation to really kick it into gear.  

I arrived at the Big Spring aid station (mile 46.5) at 11:07.   I didn’t stop, called out my number, and went into my 10K speed down the final 4.4 miles of pavement. In past years, I felt hammered at this point, and was counting the final miles to the finish. This year I felt super and enjoyed the final miles of the race and didn’t really care how much further it was.  At straight stretches, I looked back and couldn’t see anyone chasing me, so I didn’t worry.  However, within only a few hundred yards of the finish, I heard the pounding of fast running feet, coming up on me fast!   It was Tom Remkes and Cory Johnson.  I thought it would look stupid for me to break out into a sprint.  Mentally, I just wasn’t prepared to have someone catch me.   They went on ahead but encouraged me to finish with them.  I caught up with them, but they were running fast.  I finally just let them go, not wanting to go into a silly sprint at the finish.  They later explained that Eric Wynn had been on their tail for the last four miles which made them push it.   They finished 12 seconds before me.   I finished in 28th place, in 11:43.   Wow!   I didn’t realized that I was only three minutes slower than last year, my PR.   Stupid me, I could have easily pushed to beat that time.  Oh well.  I was very pleased with my finish given the tough course conditions this year.   Got to love it when everyone who finishes ahead of you are younger.  The old guy can still move.

At the finish, we had the usual great post-race dinner and I enjoyed sharing tales with many other runners.  We all felt that the course was at least 45 minutes slower than last year.  Many gave me nice pats on the back for almost matching my last years’ time.   I later looked at finishing times for last year vs. this year and indeed it looks like finishing times were on average about 35 minutes slower.   For me, the biggest factor this year for doing well was the cool weather.  I was never dehydrated and that helped me to avoid joint pain and cramps.  My legs felt fantastic at the finish.

Squaw Peak 50 is a top-notch race.  It is tough, but well-worth the experience.   I already look forward to next year.