October 21, 2005
Five months ago, I accomplished my first double crossing of the Grand Canyon, running alone from the South Rim, to the North Rim, and back in about 14.5 hours. I looked forward to returning, this time starting from the North Rim. I invited my brother, Bob, to join me. Bob had recently finished the St. George Marathon, and had run many 30-mile training runs. I believed he could make it just fine and I looked forward to sharing the experience with him.
On Thursday afternoon, I picked Bob up at the St. George, Utah airport and we drove to the Grand Canyon Lodge at the North Rim. We checked into a cabin, grabbed a quick pizza dinner, organized our stuff and then tried to get a few hours of sleep. At about 12:30 a.m., we arose and got ready for our long run across the most famous canyon in the world.
We drove two miles to the North Kaibab trailhead, to start our amazing run down into the canyon. We discussed how many warm clothes to take. At the trailhead it seemed to be pretty cold, but I assured Bob that within only a few minutes of running down, that the temperature would dramatically raise. We both had camel-back/day packs filled with food and other items. For most of the run we would carry about two liters of fluid and would fill up at water faucets along the way.
Away we went, at about 1:30 a.m., I started in the lead to set the pace. Bob mostly runs roads, so he quickly noticed the footwork skill needed for this challenging downhill run. We got into an enjoyable rhythm, running down the steep trail lighted by our flashlights. In about a mile, after dropping about 700 feet, we stopped to shed our warm outer layer. The temperature already had risen. It would be shorts and short sleeves for me the rest of the journey.
The moon was rising to the east and brightened up the deep canyon ahead of us. It was very tempting to look around while running, but we knew that we had to keep our eyes on the trail unless we wanted to take a long dive.
Whenever I hike with my brother, he always leaves stuff behind on the trail. Sure enough, within the first 20 minutes, he lost his long-sleeve shirt. There was no serious thought about turning around to climb back up the steep trail. We continued on. At Supai Tunnel (mile 2) we stopped to stash some warm clothes we wouldn’t need and didn’t want to haul around.
Bob, running across the first bridge
We ran across the first bridge over a chasm, and in another mile could hear the sound of Roaring Springs (mile 4.7) ahead pouring out of the cliffs. About a mile further, we stopped at house by the trail to check to make sure the water faucet was working. It was. This was good news. It meant that we would have a place to fill up on the way back before the last five miles. It was time for Bob to set the pace. When he led, I noticed that he was would push the pace more and it seemed to energize him. At Cottonwood Campground (mile 6.9), we also found running water and filled up our bottles for the next seven-mile stretch to Phantom Ranch.
Bob, running on a path dug into a steep cliff
The run through Box Canyon was a blast. Bob set a good fast pace on the smooth trail. The moon was now almost directly above our heads. It was so bright that I discovered that I could run without a flashlight. After about a mile of that, I tripped over a rock and took a nasty spill, resulting in a nasty gash on my knee. Bob was plugged into his Ipod, so he ran on ahead without seeing me sprawled out on the trail. I picked myself up, and regrouped. I still wanted to run without a light and soon caught back up to Bob. Within another two miles, I did it again, another face-plant on the trail, scraping the other knee and spraining my thumb. Bob again, was off down the trail. I could see that I needed more practice running fast by moonlight, so I gave it up, turned my lights back on and sprinted down the trail to catch up with Bob.
Our rest stop near Phantom Ranch
We reached Phantom Ranch (14 miles) at about 5 a.m. A few people were stirring, getting ready for their hikes, river trips, or mule rides. They were probably surprised to see two guys running though the ranch. We ran by a corral full of mules, made our way past Bright Angel Campground, and reached our first rest stop. While filling up our water bottles, and eating food, some hikers stopped who were heading up to the South Rim. They asked me where we were going, etc. They were pretty shocked to hear our plans and to realize that we had been on the North Rim just a few hours earlier. They wished us well and I knew we would see them a couple more times before the day was done.
Bob, starting across Silver Bridge
With food and drink in our bellies, we were ready to start attacking the first major hill – about 4,500 feet up in ten miles. We crossed over the footbridge, Silver Bridge, could hear the roar of the Colorado River below, and could see it shining in the moonlight. We then ran on the trail that follows the river, connecting us to the Bright Angel Trail. We soon ran past the two hikers with heavy backpacks and wished them well.
Bob, heading into Indian Gardens
Daylight finally appeared shortly before we arrived at Indian Gardens Campground (mile 19.2). Many backpackers were stirring, preparing for their trip back up to the South Rim. We took another short rest stop to eat and fill our bottles. We decided to stash our packs to lighten our load for the steep 3,000 feet and five miles left to the top.
Me at sign cautioning hikers to not attempt to hike to the river and back in one day
Now the trail began to get steeper and we started to run into day-hikers. I told Bob that whenever a hiker approached, that we had to break out into a strong run to freak them out seeing guys running up the trail. It was great fun. With all of my recent mountain running at high elevation, I felt very strong and fresh. Bob was doing well, but starting to fade somewhat. To rest my walking muscles, I would break out into a run for awhile, blasting by hikers coming down. I would then wait for Bob to catch up and enjoy the breath-taking scenery.
Bob, running up a steep portion of the trail
View across the Canyon to the North Rim, where we started.
At the 3-mile rest house (mile 20.8) we stopped for a few minutes to talk with a couple hikers. They were fascinated to hear what we were doing. We had fun conversations about ultrarunning and then wished each other well. There was only three more miles to the top. Bob kept up a good pace.
A mule train taking in the canyon views
We soon ran into the mule trains, starting their journey down the trail. They were interesting to watch. I wondered if they would be a problem passing on the way back down.
Me, at the Bright Angel trailhead
While taking pictures of the mules, I feel behind Bob, so I sprinted to catch up so we could both reach the top at the same time. After about 7.5 hours, at 9 a.m., we pulled ourselves up to the Bright Angel Trailhead (mile 23.8). I let out a cheer and congratulated Bob. We were half way home!
Last May, when I went from the South Rim to the North Rim and back, my arrival at the halfway point, the North Rim, was a cold, lonely event. There was three feet of snow and no one around. This time, at the South Rim, it was a bustle of activity. We made our way to lodge and bought some snacks and a replacement warm shirt for Bob. I joked with Bob that he could now take the shuttle back to the North Rim and I could tell that he was thinking about it but didn’t want to wimp out. He still seemed pretty strong, so I didn’t worry much but began to wonder if we would face problems ahead.
After a long hour stop, we pushed our bodies back out to the trail. There was a chill in the air, but I knew it would be very warm at the bottom. As we started our run, I heard a guy say at the trailhead: “Look at those show-offs. Let’s see if they are running when they come back up.” He thought that we were cocky runners just starting our journey. I chuckled to myself. If he only knew! But I didn’t say anything and just continued running.
Our pace was slower going down, our running stretches fewer. Bob was doing the “ultra shuffle” pretty well, keeping moving. We caught up to a mule train before Indian Garden Campground. I was impressed with the pace those beasts go down the trail. We decided it wasn’t worth it to try to pass them, so we slowed a little and enjoyed the run/walk into Indian Gardens (mile 28.4).
View to our destination, the North Rim
We retrieved our hidden packs and sat down by many hikers who started to ask questions. “How far are you going?” I replied, “We are doing a double crossing.” The group was planning on doing a multiple day backpacking trip across and back but decided it was too far. “How long are you planning on taking?” “We started this morning and plan to finish before dusk.” “What!” Then all the questions really start. “You mean you have already been up to the South Rim and are heading back?” “Yes.” They were fascinated and amazed at what we were doing. They were a fun group. After a short rest, we parted, and ran out of the campground being watched by our new fans.
Silver Bridge and Black Bridge spanning the Colorado River
After that stop, the mules were now way ahead of us. They had really chewed up the trail. We soon reached the Colorado River, our first view of it in the daylight. We saw fewer hikers heading back up because the afternoon had arrived and it would be too late for most hikers to reach the rim before sunset.
Near Phantom Ranch. (South Rim in far background)
We arrived back at Phantom Ranch (mile 33.6) at about 1:30 p.m. or so. I was still feeling fresh and strong. Bob now had run/hiked further than he ever had in his life and was starting to drag. We took a nice rest stop, eating and drinking plenty. I called my wife from a pay phone and told her we just had one more hill to go. The temperature was warm, close to 80 degrees F. We stopped at the Phantom Ranch store, but didn’t see anything worth buying. We thought we had enough food, so continued on our way.
Box Canyon was very warm, but the low afternoon sunlight brought welcome stretches of shade through the narrow canyon. My legs were tiring of constant walking. I discovered that I could break out into a fast, strong run, using different muscles. I ran ahead for some stretches and then stopped to wait for Bob to catch up. That seemed to help invigorate me.
When we approached Ribbon Falls (mile 39.2), there are two short, but steep hills to go over. Bob really slowed down on those, which made me start to worry. We met a runner who had run from the South Rim, to Cottonwood Campground and would stop at Phantom Ranch, a total of about 25 miles. He asked how steep it was to the North Rim after Cottonwood Campground (five miles ahead). I replied that it was 4,000 more feet. Bob heard that answer and groaned. He was hurting.
As we pressed on ahead toward Cottonwood Campground, my mind started to worry. Would I be able to get Bob out? Would it take all night? Would he hit “the wall” and have to spend the night at a Ranger Station. Would the ranger yell at us for attempting a double crossing? Would Bob start getting very cold once it got dark?
When we reached Cottonwood Campground (mile 40.7), I insisted that I become Bob’s helper and assume “pacing duties.” He would sit and rest and I would fill our water bottles and get anything else he needed. I made sure he ate plenty, drank plenty, and had a good rest, but we couldn’t stay long. Finally, I insisted to carry his pack the rest of the way. He at first refused, but then agreed when I pointed out that we would get back a lot faster if he let me. The extra weight was not a big deal at all. I still felt very fresh.
Now the real fun would start, the trail started to really climb. Without the weight of the pack, Bob was able to keep a nice sustained pace of about 2.5 mph. We pushed ahead in “death march” mode. On the bright side, Bob was still able to eat food and was keeping it down. His appetite was gone, but he still forced himself to eat. We drank well at the last water stop, and I hoped that we would have enough fluid for the finish.
Bob looking good as the sun starts to set
The sun began was setting as we passed by Roaring Springs (mile 42.9). Bob was still pushing ahead well, with short rest stops every mile or two. I mentioned to him that we only had about four miles left. I didn’t want him to know that we still had 3,500 feet to climb.
As the dark approached, Bob changed into his warm shirt and we pulled out the flashlights. I made Bob set the pace as it became dark. I made sure that I was only a step or two behind him so that I could catch him if he stumbled. But he didn’t. He did great. He was just experiencing the “fun” of pushing into ultra distance for the first time. It can be a real death march at the end. As we approached Supai Tunnel (mile 45.6) we discussed how it was only two miles left – two miles was easy. I didn’t mention we still had about 2,000 feet to climb. I sent Bob ahead when we realized that we passed our stash of warm clothes. I ran back down the trail, got our stuff and the pushed hard to catch up. I was delighted to see that Bob kept up a great pace and it took me quite awhile to catch up.
We soon caught up with a couple of hikers. They were amazed at our accomplishment. Bob and I now knew we would make it to the finish just fine. The hikers tried to keep up with us but very soon fell behind. Shortly the trees of the rim appeared. I knew we were getting close. The temperature started dropping fast and the wind started to blow. I looked forward to the heat of a warm car.
Finally we arrived back at the North Rim (mile 47.6) at 8:30 p.m., about a 19-hour adventure. I let out a whoop. We had done it – a double crossing! A reply whoop came up from the canyon, from the hikers about five minutes behind. I felt great, but was glad the stress of worry was over. I looked forward to a good nights’ rest back in St. George.