May 29, 2006

I admit it.   I am addicted to running across the Grand Canyon and back.  There is just nothing to compare it to — the challenge, the beauty, the sounds, the trail, and the people.   I love that place and can’t wait to return.   When a cold front blew in for Memorial Day weekend, I checked the weather forecast and knew that conditions would be ideal for a run on Memorial Day in the canyon.   With my teenagers working and my wife wanting to paint a room, I took the opportunity for a quick solo trip from Utah to the canyon.   The North Rim is again open and I figured I would only have to be away from home about 27 hours — about 13 hours for the run, and 14 hours for the commute. 

This would be my sixth double crossing, my third starting at the North Rim.   So, I have completed three double crossings (R2R2R) from the South and three from the North.  How does a north-starting-double-crossing compare to a south-starting-double-crossing?   Starting at the North Rim is harder for me.   The climb back up to the North Rim is 1,400 feet higher.   That is a tough way to finish.   It is easier for me to finish off with the shorter South Rim climb.   On fresh legs, I can do a North to South single crossing (net loss of 1,400 feet) about a half hour faster than going from South to North (net gain of 1,400 feet).  I think the north-starting double is about 30 minutes tougher for me than a south-starting double.

 

Even though starting from the north is tougher, I enjoy starting at the North Rim more than starting at the South Rim.   The North Kaibab trail is much more runnable than the trails coming down from the South Rim.   I really enjoy running down the North Kaibab trail when my legs are fresh.   Also, climbing up to the South Rim on still fairly fresh legs is great fun, especially if you are cruising by stunned day hikers.  The return trip can be less enjoyable.  The steep descent on tired legs and the long push back up the North Rim is work.   When starting from the South Rim, I look forward to the run down North Kaibab, but I am usually disappointed because of tired legs.  I always use the Bright Angel trail up to the South Rim, as opposed to South Kaibab, because I would rather get water along the way than carry it.  The bonus miles aren’t a problem.

 

My goal for this run was to beat my best north-starting time from November 2005, a 13:45 double-crossing, and to beat my best single-crossing time of 5:55.   I would be running in the Squaw Peak 50-miler in five days, so didn’t want to push it too hard, but I still wanted to get in a good training run.  Two weeks earlier I struggled in the heat, making a slow 15:12 south-starting-double-crossing.  Read my other Grand Canyon tales.

 

I arrived at the North Kaibab Trailhead at about 7:45 p.m. (AZ time).   I made my usual running preparations and hit the trail at about 8:15 p.m.  It was dusk, dark enough to need my lights to shine on the trail in the shady trees near the top of the rim.   The weather was perfect for a run across the canyon and back.  Usually it would be dangerously hot this time of year, but not today.   It felt like it was about 50 degrees at the rim and would stay pretty close to that temperature as I descended into the night.   This would be the earliest I had ever started a Grand Canyon run.   Almost my entire run would be in the dark.   I love running in the dark and needed some good night training for an upcoming 100-mile race.   Even in the night, the Grand Canyon is an amazing place.   My bright light can illuminate the cliff walls.   There is something eerie about running next to deep dark chasms.   The stars in the sky are a wonderful sight.   The sounds of all the nocturnal critters (bats, frogs, crickets, mountain sheep) sing through the canyon during the night.

 

I started my run down feeling strong and alive.   I was so pleased to again be there.   The trail was nice and soft, but packed down a little better compared to two weeks ago.   I started with a good pace, not pushing it very hard, but descended rapidly.   Within a few minutes I saw several lights and came upon a group of about six hikers.   I stopped to check to make sure they were doing OK.  They looked tired and obviously were taking longer than planned to climb back up.  They had some lights and said they were OK.  They were dressed warm, complete with hoods around their heads.  Here I was in shorts and a T-shirt.  I wished them well and ran on.   I’m sure they were trying to figure out who I was.   I was just playing the role of the friendly trail sweep, making sure the back-of-the-pack was making it to the finish.

 

I reached Supai Tunnel (mile 2) in 18 minutes, the same pace I ran this stretch back in November.   As I was descending toward the first bridge (over the chasm in Roaring Springs Canyon) I could see a pair of lights on the trail ahead, across this canyon.   The lights were moving very slowly, even on a downhill section.   I’m sure they could see me coming.  I was carrying my 14-bulb green LED flashlight and a bright red headlamp, looking like a traffic light weaving fast down the trail.

 

As I crossed the bridge, I looked up again toward their lights.   When I stepped off the bridge, I failed to look down closely and twisted my ankle on a rock.   Ouch!  I shook it off, but I would twist that same ankle two more times before the run was over.   I ran up the trail and stopped, finding two guys who looked very tired.  I asked questions and made them convince me that they were all right.   Boy, they were moving slowly.   They still had about three miles and 3,000 feet to climb.   I figured that I would probably reach the South Rim before they made it back up to the North Rim.  People just totally under estimate how difficult a hike into the canyon can be.  They said they had everything they needed, so I wished them luck and continued my run.

 

The bats were out in full force tonight!   I couldn’t believe how many dive-bombed me along the way.  Some of them were very noisy.  I reached Roaring Spring Trail (mile 4.7) at the 51 minute-mark, one minute ahead of the November pace.   At that point, the trail becomes less steep.  I was feeling very fine and decided to push it up a notch.   As I rounded the corner into Bright Angel Canyon, I ran into another pair of hikers.   I stopped again to talk.  They looked well, and said they were having fun.  I knew they would reach the top very late.

 

I arrived at Cottonwood Campground (mile 6.9) at the 1:12 mark, 3 minutes ahead of my November pace.  A few campers were still stirring, getting ready for their night’s sleep.  I considered that when I returned in about nine hours, they would be having breakfast.  I quickly refilled my bottle and dumped out some food (my breakfast) that I didn’t need until the return trip.  I put them in a bag and hid it near the trail on a rock.

 

Now the fun really began on the fast pretty-level seven-mile stretch to Phantom Ranch.  The stars were bright in the sky and when looking up I again twisted the same ankle on a rock.  I again shook it off and cranked up the speed another gear.   As I ran along Bright Angel Creek, I could see the lights of the South Rim high in the dark sky.   It was still only 10 p.m. and I bet there were some South Rim evening strollers who could see my bright green light bouncing in the canyon far off to the North.

 

My pace surprised me.   The miles quickly peeled away.   I reached Phantom Ranch (mile 14) at the 2:24 mark, 21 minutes faster than November!  (See split time comparison at the end of this write-up).  It was about 11 p.m. at the Ranch.   No one was out walking, but I could see lights on in tents at Bright Angel campground.   I knew I had a good time going, so I made a very quick stop to refill and hit the trail again after only a couple minutes.

 

As I made my climb up to the South Rim, on the Bright Angel Trail, I considered how familiar I was becoming with the trail.   This was my 11^th and 12^th time running on the trail.   The turns and the rocks were all becoming very familiar.   To keep my mind alive, I started counting all the switchbacks on the Bright Angel Trail.   I arrived at Indian Garden (mile 19.2) at the 3:50 mark, 25 minutes ahead of the November pace.   I now knew that if I didn’t get lazy, I could easily break 5:30 for the first crossing.   I still felt strong and ran any reasonable section.   Ahead of me, way up on the trail, I saw lights flashing at me.   I knew they could see me.  It would be fun to see how quickly I could catch up to them.   I caught them near the 3-mile rest house.   They were a group of four tired hikers.  One of them looked like he was about 70 years old.  They seemed in good spirits.  They asked me what I was doing so I told them about my double-crossing.  I said I would see them again and pushed on quickly again, soon looking down on their lights from a great height.   Next, I ran into two strong-looking guys coming down the trail.  They asked me where I came from.  I told them that I started from the North Rim at dusk.  They were very impressed, said and said, “way to go!”  They were traveling pretty light, but looked like they were going far.  I wondered if I would catch up to them on my return trip.  Let’s see, I was about 2.5 miles from the top, so they were five miles ahead of me.  (I did catch up to them in about 5.5 hours, and 20 miles later).

 

I did notice something different in the horizon to the North.  I saw lights coming from the North Rim.   On all my previous crossings at night, the North Rim had been closed, no lights.  The temperature was getting colder as I climbed.   But the wind was light, and I was never cold enough to stop and put on my long sleeves and gloves.  As usual, I felt great until the final 1.5 miles of the climb to the South Rim.   I then slowed a bit, but still kept pushing.   I reached the top (mile 23.8) at the 5:27 mark.   I was very pleased to beat my personal record for a single crossing.

 

I didn’t dilly-dally at the top.   I touched the trailhead sign and shifted to my downhill muscles.   I couldn’t really push the pace anymore.   I was still running, but not with speed.  I decided that I would just take it easy for the second crossing, but make sure I bested my November time.  When I reached the 1.5-mile rest house, I was surprised to discover that the water faucet was turned off.  As I thought about it, that made sense because of the recent sub-freezing temperatures during the cold front.   I was almost out of water.  About a quarter-mile down from the rest house, I again ran into the group of slow hikers.   The 70-year-oldish guy quickly asked me how far it was from “the shelter.”   I told him that it wasn’t far, but they still had a couple miles from the top.  He groaned.  They had only traveled about one mile in the time it took me to travel five miles.   I asked them several questions and made sure they had everything they needed.   The said they would be OK.  I knew they still had a long climb ahead.   It was 2:30 a.m.   I’m sure they hadn’t planned on hiking all night.

 

When I reached Indian Garden (mile 28.4) at the 6:46 mark, back-packers were stirring.  I met a group at the water faucet preparing for their early trek.   I obviously looked out of place in my shorts and running gear.   They peppered me with questions about my double crossing, trying to comprehend that I was already on my return trip.  They were amazed to hear they my first crossing only took 5:27.  “Do you run?”  I smiled and said, “Yes, I ran much of it.”   I explained that on the return trip I would run less often.   They wished me luck.   I gathered my things and made sure that I left them with a view of me running quickly down the trail.

 

I continued on, but felt lazy.   I didn’t run into any people along the stretch to Phantom Ranch, so there wasn’t the added motivation of trying to catch lights.  I was content to take it easy.  After crossing the Colorado River via the Silver Bridge, I noticed many campers with flashlights packing up at Bright Angel campground.   I’m sure I was a strange sight running up the trail with my green light.   I arrived back at Phantom Ranch at the 8:09 mark.   It was still only about 4:30 a.m., but people were starting to stir at the Ranch.

 

As I continued running up through “The Box” the morning light started to fill the canyon.   It was a beautiful sight.  My pace was labored, but I continued to run most of this stretch.   When I neared Ribbon Falls, I decided that instead of taking the high water trail, that I would take the trail toward Ribbon Falls, crossing Bright Angel Creek, and come back across on the bridge.  This avoided a climb, but really didn’t save any time.   I ended up with a wet foot crossing the creek, and had difficulty finding the trail on the other side.   I did get a closer look at Ribbon Falls.

 

I arrived at Cottonwood Campground (mile 40.7) at the 10:13 mark, 36 minutes ahead of my November pace.   Campers were up, eating breakfast, and packing up for the day’s hike.   I retrieved my stash of food.  The bag had fallen down off the rock.  I knew what that meant.  Some critter had enjoyed my breakfast!   It ate my cookies but left behind the gel packs and a Cliff Bar.   It obviously liked the junk food.   I didn’t sweat it.  I still had enough food for the home stretch.

 

The final six miles and climb of 4,200 feet was the usual grind.  I just enjoyed it.   I was amazed at the steady stream of holiday hikers coming down the trail.   Some looked unfit and had no business trying a day hike like this.  The hikers I met early were pretty fit, but as I continued up, they looked less experienced.   I knew that many of them would feel great pain before the day was over and that many would probably end up like those I saw making late night painful climbs back to the top.   I did see a couple runners, but didn’t stop them to ask how far they were going. 

 

My climb back up was pretty uneventful.   A couple times I started to feel dizzy because of the lack of sleep.   I would shake it off, eat more, and try to increase the pace.

 

I finally returned back to the North Rim at the 13:10 mark.  I’m always glad to reach the finish.  I felt fine with very little soreness.   The parking lot was totally full of cars.  I drove a few miles, found a place for privacy, washed and changed, and then started the long drive for home.   I returned home at Saratoga Springs, Utah, at 5:30 p.m.   I was away for only 27 hours, just as planned.  I enjoyed the rest of the holiday with my family and had a nice restful sleep, dreaming of the trails in the canyon.

 

Quiz

 

1. During a double crossing, using North Kaibab Trail, how many times do

you cross Bright Angel Creek?

a – 3 times

b – 4 times

c – 10 times

d – 12-16 times

 

2. During a single climb up Bright Angel Trail, how many hairpin turns do

you make? (Switch backs)

a- about 23

b – about 47

c- about 103

d- what kind of idiot would count these?

 

3. When the Brady Bunch took mules down Bright Angel Trail, what flaws

were there in the story?

a- Where could have Bobby and Cindy become lost?

b- How far away is the Indian village they went to?

c- Why didn’t they ask for help at the ranger station?

d- Eating beans from a flashlight would be nasty.

d- all of the above

 

4. The temperature at the bottom is normally:

a- 20 degrees colder than the rim (hot air rises, right?)

b- 15-30 degrees hotter than the rim

c- depends on what day of the week

 

5. During a double crossing, how many bridges will you cross?

a- 7-8

b- 14-16

c- 18-20

d- 0, I like swimming

 

email ultracrockett@gmail.com for the answers.